98 Road King Resurrection
#11
Is this a road king standard or classic?
Rear shocks are factory air.
Very low volume air.
Requires special hand pump.
The electrical blue taps to rear lights are probably some kind of turn signal modification.
The nest of wires look to be some kind of aftermarket glow lighting nonsense with extra wires just rolled up.
The side panel button looks to be an on-off for lighting nonsense.
Battery cables are connected wrong to terminals and appear stressed.
From factory the cables go to side of terminals on battery and use a spacer.
Unable to decipher the 2 wires with tape or long wire hanging down side via picture.
How is the LCD odometer in the speedometer?
Rear shocks are factory air.
Very low volume air.
Requires special hand pump.
The electrical blue taps to rear lights are probably some kind of turn signal modification.
The nest of wires look to be some kind of aftermarket glow lighting nonsense with extra wires just rolled up.
The side panel button looks to be an on-off for lighting nonsense.
Battery cables are connected wrong to terminals and appear stressed.
From factory the cables go to side of terminals on battery and use a spacer.
Unable to decipher the 2 wires with tape or long wire hanging down side via picture.
How is the LCD odometer in the speedometer?
#12
#13
Pretty sure it was for a driver backrest.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jumpman:
hattitude (04-16-2024),
Rains2much (04-16-2024)
#14
#15
Is this a road king standard or classic?
Rear shocks are factory air.
Very low volume air.
Requires special hand pump.
The electrical blue taps to rear lights are probably some kind of turn signal modification.
The nest of wires look to be some kind of aftermarket glow lighting nonsense with extra wires just rolled up.
The side panel button looks to be an on-off for lighting nonsense.
Battery cables are connected wrong to terminals and appear stressed.
From factory the cables go to side of terminals on battery and use a spacer.
Unable to decipher the 2 wires with tape or long wire hanging down side via picture.
How is the LCD odometer in the speedometer?
Rear shocks are factory air.
Very low volume air.
Requires special hand pump.
The electrical blue taps to rear lights are probably some kind of turn signal modification.
The nest of wires look to be some kind of aftermarket glow lighting nonsense with extra wires just rolled up.
The side panel button looks to be an on-off for lighting nonsense.
Battery cables are connected wrong to terminals and appear stressed.
From factory the cables go to side of terminals on battery and use a spacer.
Unable to decipher the 2 wires with tape or long wire hanging down side via picture.
How is the LCD odometer in the speedometer?
Rear shocks are factory air. Thanks
Very low volume air. Gonna sort out above list then ride it, we’ll see if I need to change.
Requires special hand pump.
The electrical blue taps to rear lights are probably some kind of turn signal modification. Yes. Hate how it was done.. will try to improve.
The nest of wires look to be some kind of aftermarket glow lighting nonsense with extra wires just rolled up. Yep, and not working.
The side panel button looks to be an on-off for lighting nonsense. Yep
Battery cables are connected wrong to terminals and appear stressed.
From factory the cables go to side of terminals on battery and use a spacer. Any pictures of factory?
Unable to decipher the 2 wires with tape or long wire hanging down side via picture. Looking into this morning.
How is the LCD odometer in the speedometer? Shot, didn’t even notice when buying.
#16
#17
Classic had fuel injection, leather bags, slash cut mufflers and more chrome on a black motor.
Fenders would also have fancier tip at rear.
On battery cables. From factory they run UP large side of battery and bolt to front hole on terminals.
After market batteries come with little brass color spacers since terminal is not flush with side of case.
Your cables are original but somebody forced ends in order to mount on top.
The speedometer LCD black out looking like a pen leaked is common for tank mounted speedometers of that era.
If needle works then a LCD replacement is an option or small adapter harness to switch system to a plug and play 1999 speedometer.
Review rear swingarm at axle for crack on pulley side near shock.
Remove lowering blocks if installed.
The lowering blocks change shock angle and increase stress at that point.
Fenders would also have fancier tip at rear.
On battery cables. From factory they run UP large side of battery and bolt to front hole on terminals.
After market batteries come with little brass color spacers since terminal is not flush with side of case.
Your cables are original but somebody forced ends in order to mount on top.
The speedometer LCD black out looking like a pen leaked is common for tank mounted speedometers of that era.
If needle works then a LCD replacement is an option or small adapter harness to switch system to a plug and play 1999 speedometer.
Review rear swingarm at axle for crack on pulley side near shock.
Remove lowering blocks if installed.
The lowering blocks change shock angle and increase stress at that point.
The following 3 users liked this post by im:
#18
The following users liked this post:
Rains2much (04-16-2024)
#19
spokes, leather bags, but factory carbureted. That was a must. I would not own fuel injection. I like power a lot and I don’t use a laptop with motorcycles… like ever. Talk about sucking the romance right out of the man machine connection. To each there own but I use a lap top all day.. no thanks when it comes to HotRods.
#20
Jezus, what a rats nest.
"3) Remove goofy connectors and wing nuts solder add heat shrink"
That's a lot of work and really not necessary, but I reckon it can be therapeutic. After discovering Posi Taps and Posi Loc's my life has been easier. I have used them on camper builds, boats and all of my bikes & never had one fail. They can be removed without damaging the wire and re-used. They are not cheap, but man what a time saver:
https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html
So it's a '98 hunh...my first Harley was a '98 police bike. Tore it down and gave it a garage paint job in black over tan....I loved that Evo....what a great engine. Enjoy!
"3) Remove goofy connectors and wing nuts solder add heat shrink"
That's a lot of work and really not necessary, but I reckon it can be therapeutic. After discovering Posi Taps and Posi Loc's my life has been easier. I have used them on camper builds, boats and all of my bikes & never had one fail. They can be removed without damaging the wire and re-used. They are not cheap, but man what a time saver:
https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html
So it's a '98 hunh...my first Harley was a '98 police bike. Tore it down and gave it a garage paint job in black over tan....I loved that Evo....what a great engine. Enjoy!
The following users liked this post:
im (04-16-2024)