'blend' can mean many different things. it is considered to be a full synthetic with a blend of 3 different basestocks. not the same as the blend that i run in my truck that is a dino/synthetic blend....

this is oversimplifying it, i know. but without going into the fine detail of the difference in basestocks etc. that could take a whole book (and is better left to the experts. and i do mean real experts, not the self proclaimed ones)

quite frankly, thats way more information than i needed/wanted. and please, no pics

there is more than a few folks that run atf in their primary.

 

From HD

Formulated for use in Harley-Davidson® Engines, Transmissions and the following Primary Chaincase applications: '71-later XL, '83-'84 XR1000, '08-later XR and '84-later Big Twin models with wet-type diaphragm spring clutch.

 

My 2012 CVO came with Syn 3 in all holes as previously mentioned. At the first service which was included in my purchase the dealer asked me if I would like Redline Shock proof heavy in the trans. I agreed at his recommendation. He felt it was a better application.
For the primary he used the HD Formula plus but I may switch to Redline MTL for the primary as this combo is what my husband uses. FYI we use Mob 1 20/50 syn for the engine.

 

Bump...

 

Look at the manual for oil specs to be used in each hole (i.e. engine, tranny, primary). Then use an oil that meets the specs for that application. I have never seen any specs that differentiate between synthethic, blend, or pure dino. There are brands of oils (that use syn, blend, or dino) that meet the specs.

People have to get over this paranonia of syn vs dino. They are the same carbon based chain of molecules. The major difference is dino has a much larger molecular distribution (wider range of very short chain and very long chain molecules) as well as branched molecules. The branched and very long chained molecules are the ones that tend to get sheared-off during high shear stress situation in the engine, tranny, etc, which leads to viscosity breakdown. Syn oil tends to have a much narrower molecular distribution of molecules (the chains of molecules are more similar and less really short or really long molecules). This is because, during the manufacturing process they can control this molecular chain-length process to get the length and distribution they want for a particular oil base stock. Typically, syn does not have any branched molecules as they are straight chain.

None of the base oil stocks would ever meet the oil specs without oil additives. This is the real key differentiator between oil brands. I am not going to go into all the different oil additives and what they do here, you can do a search online.

All the dealer or HD should ever state is for you to use the oil that meets the SPECS PER THE MANUAL. If they require you to use a specific brand of oil, then according to Fed Law, they will be required to provide that oil for free to you. If they are changing the specs from the manual they have some issues as well. Next time the local dealer says something crazy like that, ask them to show it to you in the owners manual. If they can not, tell them to shut the F$%#-up then and quit spewing BS around.

Now with all that said, everyone has their own "preferred" brand or type of oil. I have seen a lot of threads on this on this forum. Most of it is usually based on emotional (feeling) and less on actual facts of the oil performance. Being an eng. I like to see facts. So look for studies done on motorcycle oils using ASTM (industry standard) tests to test for Viscosity shear stability(ASTM D-6278), Hi temp/hi shear viscosity(HT/HS ASTM D5481), zinc concentration(Ppm), wear protection (4-ball ASTM D-4172), gear test (FZG ASTM D-5192), oxidation test (TFOUT ASTM D4742), volatility(evaporation, ASTM D-5800), acid neutralization (expressed as TBN , ASTM D-2896), foaming tendency (ASTM D-892), rust protection (ASTM D-1748), wet clutch compatibility (JASO T 904:2006). You want JASO MA2 for our motorcycle wet clutch.

Once you have these specs and compare them with other brands you can then intelligently state which oil is actually the "best".

The fact is, if the oil meets the specs of your owners manual and you follow the maintenance specs per the manual, there is not much difference. They will all work.

Hope this helps.

PS- noticed I never stated which oil I prefer in all this.

 

Going in for my 1,000 service tommorrow

Motor: Amsoil SAE 20/50

Trans: Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6 Spd. SAE 75w140

Primary: Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil

All Synthetic(had in my two 2008 & 2007 fxdli lowriders smooth as Butta)

really quieted down trans, motor


2012 street glide, stk. for know

 

I was going to say this...but this gentleman did a better job...

Oh yeah...wasn't this about Primary Fluid?

 

Last bottle I read said full synthetic and it surprised me.

I'm putting Redline Primary in next time. I don't see why SYN 3 is a problem though.

 

Smart dealer.

...

 

My "old" 2006 Ultra manuals, both service and owners, specified HD transmission/primary fluid in those two holes and essentially diesel grade oil in the engine. Never have found what an equivalent to the HD trans/primary oil was.
I like the thought of using one fluid in all holes and at 5K mile service intervals, I seriously doubt that any quality lubricant is going to break down.