I have to change a rocker cover gasket on my "new to me" 1992 FXR...
Anyone have any experience with this?
I cant find much info...
Does anyone know of a thread that documents this process? Do I have to take the motor out?
There's NO ROOM between the frame and the covers.... BUMMIN'!!!
ANY HELP would be appreciated!
THANKS

 

Found a BIT of info...
is it true I can change the rear rocker gasket with out removing the motor?
how do you even get an allen wrench in the rear bolts??? Looks like there is NO ROOM!
ugh

 

When I changed mine on my 87 fxr I cut a allen wrench (not sure how long 1/2 inch ? was years ago) that fit in and used a wrench on it worked fine didn't take out the engine

 

Is there any positioning of valves that has to occur?

 

If its the top and middle covers (Rubber gaskets) the valve postion is immaterial, its only when you change the actual rocker assembly gasket that valve position applies.

Rear cover is easy to get at with the tank off....you might need to move the wiring around a bit.

Twist it round to slide it out and the next one comes off easier.

 

bolts on my bike accept an alen wrench or 7/16" closed wrench. I just used a wrench. EVO may be different.

 

"... is it true I can change the rear rocker gasket with out removing the motor? how do you even get an allen wrench in the rear bolts??? Looks like there is NO ROOM!"

Trying to recall how I did this on my old '90 FXR back in the day, and I remember that I anchored the bike as near vertical as possible, used a jack to lift the motor slightly, yanked the front motor mount, then lowered the motor straight down with a floor jack just enough to give me space to get a wrench on the rear cover bolts. You may or may not have to loosen the stabilizer links - try not to so that you don't have to do an alignment later. If you are pulling the pushrods out to change the bottom cover gasket they have to go back in the same hole they came out of (the OEM rods are color-coded) as I believe they are slightly different lengths.

While you have access to the top of the motor, now would be a good time to check the condition of the hidden wires, vacuum hoses, even the upper stabilizer link, etc. If you are careful and take your time you should have no trouble completing the repairs. Hope it works out for you.

 

for the bolts under the frame I broke them loose with a right angled allen key and loosened them until I could get a closed wrench around them.
(took the tank off to make access easier)