How to install points & condenser
#1
How to install points & condenser
Hi, I am new to this and I have never installed points & condenser on a motorcycle before. I have a custom Harley Davidson Softail with a 1340 Evo motor on it. My question is how hard is it to install new points and a condenser in the nose cone. Any help would very appreciated. Thanks. Bill
#2
It is not difficult but you need a few parts to get the job done.You will need a 6 ohm coil an advance unit with the points cam which opens the points up and the screw that keeps the points cam in place.Blue Streak and 6 cylinder Chevy points with a 12 volt condensor and you are good to go.
I won't ask why because I did the conversion also but in my opinion the electronic system is a much better way to go.
I won't ask why because I did the conversion also but in my opinion the electronic system is a much better way to go.
#3
I changed my 84 Sportster over to points & condenser when the electronic unit went south. I am hoping that the 99 EVO unit is better. One thing with points and condenser, if you carry a spare, you can fix most ign. problems on the side of the road. Guess you could carry a spare electronic unit, but much simpler with points and condenser. I do think the electronic is better in regard to running, although my Sporty ran very well with points. I think the advance curve is a little different, and points do not advance as much on the highway, which lets your gas mileage suffer a little.
#4
I changed my 84 Sportster over to points & condenser when the electronic unit went south. I am hoping that the 99 EVO unit is better. One thing with points and condenser, if you carry a spare, you can fix most ign. problems on the side of the road. Guess you could carry a spare electronic unit, but much simpler with points and condenser. I do think the electronic is better in regard to running, although my Sporty ran very well with points. I think the advance curve is a little different, and points do not advance as much on the highway, which lets your gas mileage suffer a little.
You are right about the advance curve. Many if not all Evos were built to meet early emissions regulations and the stock electronic ignition module has some strange things going on. An after market module will put that right (I used a Crane on mine) and give a better curve.
Points need to be maintained, while electronics don't! Electronics are more reliable so less likely to give problems, but when they do, they can let us down big time. My ignition sender packed up on the outside lane of a multi-lane road in rush-hour - that was exciting! Needed the cops to stop all the traffic so I could be rescued. Don't get that with points - see what you might be missing?!
#7
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#9
the mechanical adv can be adjusted by changing the springs. in stock form, it is around 2k rpm.
the #1 issue i have with the points is cough-back and die when stopped, usually at a busy intersection, bummer with manual foot.
i have been running the compu-fire system since 1975 and the machine has close to 200k miles. no bells and whistles, just go from idle to wot.
find a GOOD adv unit, i have a stainless with bearings, not bushings.
on that note, when the adv starts to fail, you will have issues. i had a pan that i forgot to roll to retard and it sent me to the moon, carried the scar for decades, that said, do not use a cleated bicycle pedal, that thing takes a chunk of flesh.
the #1 issue i have with the points is cough-back and die when stopped, usually at a busy intersection, bummer with manual foot.
i have been running the compu-fire system since 1975 and the machine has close to 200k miles. no bells and whistles, just go from idle to wot.
find a GOOD adv unit, i have a stainless with bearings, not bushings.
on that note, when the adv starts to fail, you will have issues. i had a pan that i forgot to roll to retard and it sent me to the moon, carried the scar for decades, that said, do not use a cleated bicycle pedal, that thing takes a chunk of flesh.
#10